fail, dumb, stupid, fix, horray!

I feel like one of the dumbest people.
When I got the cutter, one of the first sounds it was producing was a loud clanking from the up-down-table as one of its coarse-threaded-rods skipped a turn on (presuably) one of their upper-nuts. From that time, cut’s were non-even from left to right (really worse) or bottom to top (less worse but notable) as the distance to the part beeing lasered changed while the laser-head was travelling. As (i think) the focus is one of the reasons you can’t cut thick material, i reverted to cutting small pieces and adjusting the distance for every cut.
I thought I could fix that by putting a small lever on the table and leveling out the vial. After loosening the tensions bearings and turning all the rods… well… it got worse.
I took me about 4 weeks to get the correct solution. As i needed to cut a larger piece which did not fit on the top-bottom direction i noticed the aim-laser changing it’s position way to much while it was tracing the frame(bounding-box). I put the lever on the bars that hold the linear-rails for the laser and it was way off level. The up-down-table isnt coupled to this frame but standing up from the bottom on its own. Finally I realized i don’t need it level, I just need it as askew as the linear-rails. So.. I made fail2.
I thought I needed to get the table (the cutter as a whole is standing on) level and then make everything level. I tried cramming stuff below the feet of the table, but that didn’t help.
Finally I realized I don’t need the level(er), I just need to use the much simpler approach, which is to get an even distance of the head to something I can easily move along the cutting area. Nothing easier than this. Just use the same 5mm piece of waste-wood in all corners and throb the rods until the part can’t move anymore, in all corners.
Now it’s not perfect but it finally doesn’t matter that much anymore where the piece to cut is. Cuts much cleaner and more reproducably. I’m stupid.

glas-edge led strip

It looks like there’s no led strip on the market, designed to iluminate the edge of a 1.8mm glas, so I tried (and failed) to roll my own.
First I tried without eagle, then with. I tried to position the leds right to the edge so I didn’t have to ream the picture frame.

Lasered the pcb looked fine but after etching it looks rather ugly. I reverted to eagle and tried “isolation milling” but it looks like the trace-width i used to get trough between the 1206 (yes, it’s large) is to narrow after beeing etched for too long.

So instead of a 0R 1206 I reverted to solder pads. Maybe a fresh etching solution will do the trick.

dfyh-clhl-m8m9-j6lr-n0pl-8lxh-bht6

pckk-g0wz-dttk-lnhh-hfht-2szf-hff8

qzmf-bghk-qwkx-b43y-sbcz-1rxx-hgzs

bl4d-vtbd-bdjz-cptf-fbsp-kgzl-cmvk

Vereinzeler V+++

Several tries and fails….

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the remaining tab was to thin and therefor to fragile .

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slot to wide, sleeves got stuck.

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too fragile, bent.

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that’s much lighter but epic failed because i need the “full circle” to prevent the sleeves from fallout out 🙁

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screwes only serve as helpers to align and while the glue cures. I need a flush surface.

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That’s starting to work. only the hopper needs to go back a little so the wedge has enough space to do its work.

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Vereinzeler V4

Next try. way to beefy, needs cut-outs. It’s supposed to turn on a (stepper-)motor (later version) or servo.
The flower-shape in the middle is for the servo-attachment.
Fails:

  • each laser-pre-drill is different so I couldn’t re-use the same shape for the quarter-circles.
  • The Slot in the middle is to wide, so the sleeves drop in too deep and get wedged
  • The Slot was ment to be used for a small piece of metal that should slide back and forth to move the sleeve towards the spoon, but the diameter of the circle is too small to do that.

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